It was snotlings who pulled me into this hobby. It all started with a packet of ‘Goblinoids’ Citadel Combat Cards. I loved the look of every miniature in that deck (I’m not even sure I knew that they were miniatures at that point), but I was particularly taken by the loveable trio of Snoti, Fungus, and Bogi Dungbreath.

Fast forward a year or so, and I spot a copy of White Dwarf in my local newsagents. It’s issue 166 (October 93), and I’m excitedly flicking through the pages, wondering what whole new universe I’ve just discovered. I get to the mail order pages at the back and I can’t believe what I’m seeing.

Snotlings!

Ten minutes of pleading with my mum and we’re on the bus home with the magazine open in front of me. It would be a year or two yet before I’d actually own any snotlings of my own, but at least I now knew what they were, where they came from, and that you could collect them.

When I did finally get my own base of snotlings, I probably did the worst ever job of all my childhood miniatures. The base was the wrong way round (it seemed logical because the snotlings fitted into the little holes), and I dunked the entire thing in sand once they were all glued in. It looked absolutely hellish.

I got more of them further down the line, and my job on them wasn’t much better. Fortunately, some of those snotlings survived the sands of time (if not the sands of basing), and I recently had the opportunity to strip them and try to make them presentable for the first time in their long lives.

I’ve been building a goblin warband led by Jareth from The Labyrinth, and these guys will slot nicely into his greenskin ranks.

I also have a Nurgle warband and was happy with the way my Nurglings turned out. It inspired me to get cracking with the snotlings and do something similar.

I’ve used large round bases for them – the entire warband are on rounds – and added some 3D-printed mushrooms and toadstools I bought on Etsy.

There are also a couple of new miniatures in the mix. The two goblins with the standard come from Knightmare. The wee snake-charming goblin was a free gift with an order from somewhere, but I can’t for the life of me remember where. If you know where it’s from, please let me know.

I’m looking forward to finishing off the basing and getting them undercoated. I’ll use this post to provide updates and fresh pictures when I have them.

I’m now the proud owner of a fully painted fleet of ships to play Armada with.

I’ve never painted boats before. I went for a quick “bright, bold, basic” approach. I enjoyed the process.

The ships are Man O’War proxies from Etsy. A Royalist Galleon, three Royalist Corsair Ships, and three Royalist Buccaneers.

I got some Armada-appropriate sized MDF bases from Warbases and used Vallejo Plastic Putty to create the sea effect.

I’m using the Asurmen Blue contrast paint on the water, dry brushed with my old pot of Skull White. That’s also a mid-90s Regal Blue around the edge.

Being a narrative gamer, I’m taking lead from Henry Hyde’s Imagi-Nations and creating my own European seafaring nation from the age of sail – Maritonia.

That means coming up with a bit of background fluff and naming each ship. Maybe even the Admiral and Captain of each ship, too.

My 2D terrain, 6mm terrain, and 6mm trees have come in handy for creating decent wee islands.

I have a rival fleet to paint now, alongside my ongoing 15mm armies project. But I’m now more than 50% towards getting a game of naval combat on the table. I am looking forward to it.

I used to base my miniatures after I’d painted them, seeing it as a “final touches” sort of stage. But when I started using the zenithal priming approach to undercoat, I decided to try basing them first. I find it gives them a lot more overall consistency and has improved my process.

I’m not going to try and convince you that you should do the same. I just wanted to share a few pics to demonstrate how it’s working well for me.

I glue wee ripped-up bits of notebook to cover the slots, and smooth the area out with plastic putty.

I use Vallejo Ground Texture on my bases, which turns rock-hard after about 12 hours. This can be painted up in any colour to represent any type of terrain.

Then it’s a typical zenithal approach, a black undercoat then a skoosh of Wraithbone from above.

I use the Citadel Plaguebearer Flesh contrast paint on the base. I find this works well with the natural shading from the zenithal spray. Then, being stuck firmly in the mid-90s, I paint the sides with Goblin Green.

As I say, it works well for me!

My two-year-old daughter is obsessed with Labyrinth. What kind of Dad would I be if I didn’t jump on the bandwagon?

I picked up this Jareth 3D print from Etsy (I found more Labyrinth figures, which are now ordered and on the way, too).

I found him to be a fun, novel painting experience. And he’ll fit in well as leader of my growing goblin warband.

Elsewhere, I had a couple of captive/prisoner minis from Midlam.

These will come in handy for story-driven narrative scenarios.

Whilst shopping for 15mm stuff on the Ral Partha site, I couldn’t resist this Kev Adams demon, either.

If you asked Alexa to show you the opposite of a modern-day GW miniature, this is exactly what it would come up with.

Speaking of 15mm, I do have some stuff in the works there, too, including this cannon. I bought the crew separately and found they (and their kit) all fitted nicely onto one 40mm x 40mm base.

I have some chaos warriors and trolls for my 15mm project nearing completion, and I’ll have photos of them in my next update.

It began with a conversation on the Tabletop Miniature Hobby Podcast, shortly followed by a splurge on two opposing armies (which didn’t actually cost that much at all!). Now, I’ve finally finished two full units, a big stone troll, and a couple of other test paints.

Here’s what’s been done so far.

The Blood-Eye Orcs’ rank and file are from Pendraken. Their command comes via Ral Partha. The standard bearer fell over, chipped, and had to be re-painted about six or seven times. I hate him.

The big lad was a generous freebie from Alternative Armies, where I’d ordered a lot of my 15mm rank-and-file from, including the mounted knight and archer who’ll eventually have their own regiments to join.

The noble Frostguard Paladins were purchased from Ral Partha, too.

The movement trays were from Warbases.

I have some waterslide transfers to try out on the mounted knight’s shield, as well as the banners on both regiments. I think the orc’s shields might be too small to accommodate the ones I got from Essex Miniatures.

I’ve enjoyed my first forays into painting 15mm, and I’m content with the results. I’ve plenty more to be working on for these rival orc and human armies, and I expect they’ll keep me busy through to the end of 2024.

We all need some Kev Adams goblins in our lives. I picked these up a couple of years ago from the excellent Knightmare Miniatures. For some reason or another, they kept getting pushed down my to-do list. But I figured they deserved to be painted, and so, the deed is done.

‘Neil Warlock’ was the one miniature here who’s had paint on him for a while. I painted him up during the October 2022 nostalgia paint challenge.

These were a real joy to paint. Each of them has so much character.

The full warband housed in their movement tray.

The bigger guys with the spears and shields are from the Black Goblins set.

The others are the Chaos Mutant Goblin set.

So there we are: a goblin warband that’ll come in handy for future games of Frostgrave, Rangers of Shadow Deep, and Song of Blades & Heroes. They’ll also link up well with my goblin archers, and I’ve a lot more Oldhammery greenskins waiting patiently on the lead pile, too!

I’m never going to own a 6’4 table. But I still look at those old Warhammer Fantasy Battles pictures in White Dwarf and want to recreate the experience in my own way. 6mm is unarguably a brilliant way to fight out massive battles, but when I learned more about 15mm recently, it felt just right. Not too big, not too small, just right.

To be clear, I’m not abandoning 28mm. It’ll always be the main scale for me. But doing mass battles at that scale is unrealistic for me. I just don’t have the space, or, the budget.

I did have some hobby money available after selling a few 28mm regiments I knew I’d never use. So I re-invested it in two full 15mm armies, which I was able to assemble for around £120 in total.

One is an Orc & Goblin horde (with some Chaos Warrior allies), whilst the other is an Empire/human force. I put them together from three different companies, Ral Partha, Alternative Armies, and Pendraken.

Here are the two armies laid out. I’ve done nothing to them except glue them to their bases. They still need cleaned up and straightened out before the paintwork begins. But I’m looking forward to a new challenge.

The wolfs don’t even have their riders glued on yet.

I’ve gone for a predominantly monopose aesthetic because I’m a 90s White Dwarf guy. The Champions and Standard Bearers are all from Ral Partha. RP’s minis are definitely the most detailed of the lot, though slightly bigger and a little more expensive.

All of the greenskins were from Pendraken, along with all of the bases.

So there we go, my 15mm project at its very outset. I still have some chaos goblins and a Nurgle warband to finish off, first. But this is good motivation to crack on and get them done!

Miniature painting has many benefits, including stress relief, artistic expression, and the satisfaction of seeing your work come to life. In our ultimate guide to painting miniatures, we’re going to cover how to get started, what you’ll need, and how to keep on growing and improving. First things first, though – let’s kick off with some reasons why you might want to consider it as your next hobby.

Creative Outlet

Miniature painting is a great way to express your creativity and bring your imagination to life. Whether you’re painting a fantasy creature or a historical figure, you have the opportunity to make it your own and put your personal touch on it.

Stress Relief

Painting miniatures can be a great way to unwind and de-stress after a long day. It’s a meditative process that allows you to focus on something other than the stresses of everyday life.

Fine Motor Skills

Miniature painting requires a steady hand and a lot of attention to detail, which can help improve your fine motor skills. It can also help improve your hand-eye coordination and spatial awareness.

Community

There’s a vibrant community of miniature painters out there, both online and in person. Joining a group or forum can provide you with inspiration, support, and feedback on your work.

Gaming

Many people who paint miniatures do so as a way to enhance their gaming experience. Painting your own game pieces can make the game more immersive and personal.

Collecting

Miniature painting can also be a great way to start a collection. Whether you collect historical figures, fantasy creatures, or anything in between, there’s a miniature out there for everyone.

What Do I Need to Paint Miniatures?

Let’s get to the first part of our “how to”, then. What exactly are you going to need to paint up your first few miniatures?

Miniature Paints

Of course, you’ll need some paint! There are many different brands and types of paint out there, but for beginners, I’d recommend starting with acrylic paint. It’s water-soluble, dries quickly, and is generally more forgiving than other types of paint. Some popular brands of miniature paint include Citadel, Vallejo, and Reaper.

Brushes

Once you’ve got your paint, you’ll need something to apply it with. Most people use paintbrushes for this, and again, there are a ton of different types to choose from. For beginners, I’d recommend starting with a few basic brush sizes – something like a size 1 or 2 for larger areas, and a size 0 or 00 for details. You can always add more brushes to your collection later on as you become more experienced. Some popular brands of paintbrushes include Winsor & Newton, Army Painter, and Rosemary & Co.

A Palette

Next up, you’ll want some kind of palette to mix your paints on. This can be as simple as a paper plate or plastic lid, or you can invest in a more specialized palette made specifically for miniature painting. Some popular options include the Wet Palette, which keeps your paint wet for longer periods of time, or the Everlasting Wet Palette, which uses a special membrane to keep your paint from drying out.

Primer

Another essential tool is a primer. Primer is a type of paint that you apply to your miniature before you start painting, and it helps the paint adhere better and go on smoother. You can get primers in different colours, but for most miniatures, a white or black primer will do the trick. Some popular brands of primer include Citadel, Vallejo, and Army Painter.

Lighting

When it comes to painting miniatures, good lighting is key. A bright lamp with a daylight-coloured bulb will help you see the details on your miniature more clearly, and can reduce eye strain and fatigue.

There are a few different types of lamps that are popular among miniature painters. A desk lamp with a flexible arm is a good option, as it allows you to adjust the position of the light as needed. Some desk lamps also have a built-in magnifying glass, which can be helpful for seeing those tiny details.

Magnifying Glass

If you want something more specialized, you can also look into a magnifying glass headset. These are like a pair of glasses with a magnifying lens built in, and they can be very helpful for seeing fine details and making precise brushstrokes. Some magnifying glass headsets also come with built-in lights, which can be useful if your workspace isn’t well-lit.

When choosing a magnifying glass headset, you’ll want to look for one with a comfortable and adjustable headband, as well as a lens size that suits your needs. Some headsets also come with interchangeable lenses, so you can switch between different magnification levels as needed.

It’s worth noting that not everyone finds magnifying glass headsets comfortable to wear for long periods of time, so it’s a good idea to try one out before committing to a purchase. You may also find that a combination of a good lamp and a magnifying glass or loupe (a handheld magnifying glass) works better for you.

Miniature Painting Techniques

Now that you’ve got your gear in place, what are some miniature painting techniques you can use to bring your miniatures to life?

Dry Brushing

Dry brushing is a technique that involves using a dry brush to apply a small amount of paint to the raised areas of a miniature. This creates a highlight effect that makes the miniature look more three-dimensional. To dry brush, you’ll need a stiff brush, a small amount of paint, and a paper towel. Dip the brush into the paint, then wipe most of it off on the paper towel. Then, lightly brush the raised areas of the miniature to create highlights.

Feathering

Feathering is a technique that involves blending two colours together to create a smooth transition. To feather, you’ll need two colours and a brush. Start by applying the lighter colour to the area you want to paint. Then, dip your brush into the darker colour and drag it across the edge of the lighter colour, blending the two together. Repeat this process until you have a smooth transition between the two colours.

Edge Highlighting

Edge highlighting is a technique that involves painting a thin line of a lighter colour along the edges of a miniature. This creates the illusion of light hitting the miniature from a certain angle. To edge highlight, you’ll need a small brush and a lighter colour than the base colour of the miniature. Simply paint a thin line along the edges of the miniature where you want the highlight to appear.

Washing

Washing is a technique that involves applying a thin, watery layer of paint over an area to create shadows and depth. To wash, you’ll need a darker colour than the base colour of the miniature and a brush. Simply apply the paint to the area you want to shade, then use a damp brush to spread the paint around and blend it into the surrounding areas.

Layering

Layering is a technique that involves building up layers of paint to create smooth transitions and depth. To layer, you’ll need several shades of the same colour, starting with a base colour and working your way up to the highlights. Apply each layer in a thin, even coat, letting each layer dry before moving on to the next one.

Glazing

Glazing is a technique that involves applying a thin, transparent layer of paint over an area to change its colour or create a subtle effect. To glaze, you’ll need a transparent colour and a brush. Mix the paint with water or a glazing medium to create a thin, watery consistency, then apply it to the area you want to glaze. Let it dry, then repeat the process until you achieve the desired effect.

Stippling

Stippling is a technique that involves using a stippling brush to create a textured effect on a miniature. To stipple, you’ll need a stippling brush, which has stiff bristles that are cut at different lengths. Dip the brush into the paint, then dab it onto the miniature to create a textured effect.

Object-Source Lighting (OSL)

OSL (Object-Source Lighting) is a technique that involves painting a miniature as if it’s being lit by a light source, such as a torch or a glowing gem. To achieve this effect, you’ll need to paint the areas closest to the light source with brighter colours, and gradually darken the colours as you move away from the light source.

Wet Blending

Wet blending is a technique that involves blending two colours together while the paint is still wet. To wet blend, you’ll need two colours and a damp brush. Apply one colour to the area you want to paint, then quickly apply the second colour next to it while the paint is still wet. Use the damp brush to blend the two colours together.

Chiaroscuro

Chiaroscuro is a technique that involves using strong contrasts of light and dark to create a dramatic effect. To achieve this effect, you’ll need to paint the areas you want to be dark with a dark colour and the areas you want to be light with a light colour. Use a dry brush to create highlights and a wash to create shadows.

Non-Metallic Metal (NMM)

NMM (Non-Metallic Metal) is a technique that involves painting a metallic surface using non-metallic colours. To achieve this effect, you’ll need to use shades of grey and white to create the illusion of metal. Paint the highlights with white and the shadows with grey, then blend the colours together to create a smooth transition.

Zenithal Priming

Zenithal priming is a technique that involves priming a miniature with two or more shades of primer to create a base for highlighting and shading. This technique helps to create the illusion of natural lighting on the miniature, as if it were lit from above.

To zenithal prime, you’ll need at least two shades of primer, one lighter and one darker than the base colour of the miniature. Start by priming the miniature with the darker shade, then spray the lighter shade from above, focusing on the areas you want to highlight. This will create a gradient effect, with the darker shade showing through in the shadows and the lighter shade appearing on the raised areas.

Once you’ve zenithal primed your miniature, you can use it as a guide for highlighting and shading. The lighter areas will be the ones that catch the most light, so you can focus your highlights there. The darker areas will be the ones in shadow, so you can shade them accordingly.

Zenithal priming can be a helpful technique for beginners, as it provides a guide for highlighting and shading that can make the process easier and more intuitive. It can also be a helpful technique for more advanced painters, as it can help to create a more naturalistic and realistic effect on the miniature.

How to Take Photos of Your Painted Miniatures

Taking photos of your miniatures is a great way to showcase your work and share it with others. However, it can be a bit daunting to figure out how to take the best photos possible. Here are some tips to get you started:

Lighting

Good lighting is essential for taking good photos. Ideally, you want to use natural light or a bright, even artificial light source. Avoid using a flash as it can create harsh shadows and reflections. If you’re using artificial light, try to use a softbox or diffuser to create a more even light.

Background

Choose a neutral background that won’t distract from your miniature. A simple white or black background works well, but you could also use a coloured background if it complements the colours on your miniature.

Camera

You don’t need an expensive camera to take good photos of your miniatures. A smartphone camera can work just fine, as long as you have good lighting and a steady hand. If you want to invest in a camera, look for one with manual controls so you can adjust the settings to get the best possible shot.

Composition

Think about the composition of your photo. Consider the angle and perspective you’re shooting from, and try to position your miniature so that it’s in focus and fills the frame.

Editing

Don’t be afraid to do a bit of editing to your photos after you’ve taken them. You can adjust the brightness and contrast, crop the photo, and even remove any dust or scratches that might be visible. Just be careful not to over-edit your photos and make them look unrealistic.

Overall, taking good photos of your painted miniatures is all about having good lighting, a neutral background, and a steady hand. Don’t be afraid to experiment with different angles and compositions until you find the best shot. With a bit of practice and patience, you’ll be taking great photos of your miniatures in no time!

Taking Your Miniature Painting to the Next Level

Painting miniatures is a skill that takes practice and patience to master, but with the right mindset and approach, anyone can improve their techniques and create stunning works of art. Here are some tips to help you take your miniature painting skills to the next level.

Practice, Practice, Practice

Painting miniatures is all about building up your skills over time. The more you practice, the better you’ll become. Try setting aside regular time to practice, even if it’s just for a few minutes each day.

Learn From Others

Look to the community of miniature painters for inspiration and advice. Joining a group or forum can provide you with a wealth of information and feedback on your work.

Invest in Good Tools

Having the right tools can make a big difference in the quality of your work. Consider investing in good brushes, paints, and other supplies to help you create more precise and detailed work.

Study Colour Theory

Understanding colour theory can help you create more harmonious and effective colour schemes in your work. Take some time to learn about the colour wheel, complementary colours, and other basic concepts.

Focus on Details

Miniature painting is all about the details. Take the time to work on the small details, like eyes, textures, and highlights, to make your work stand out.

Experiment With Different Techniques

Don’t be afraid to try new techniques and approaches to painting. Experimenting can help you find new ways to approach your work and create new effects.

Don’t Be Too Hard on Yourself

Remember that painting miniatures is a learning process, and it’s okay to make mistakes. Instead of getting frustrated, use your mistakes as an opportunity to learn and grow.

Miniature Painting: Next Steps

Painting miniatures is just one great part of this vast and rewarding hobby. If you’re tempted to get your shiny new miniatures on the table and throw some dice, but don’t know where to start, check out our Best Miniature Wargames for Beginners roundup.

And, if you’re looking for some cool and interesting new miniatures to paint, be sure to check out our Best Miniature Companies roundup, too. Happy painting!

I’ve been a follower of Grandfather Nurgle ever since I opened my first deck of Citadel Combat Cards and discovered The Great Unclean One. I loved everything about him. Not least of all, his name.

It was always my aim (along with about 6000 other aims, it must be said) to collect a Nurgle army. But like almost every kid in the hobby, I simply didn’t have the funds. I ended up owning a Beast of Nurgle, who was thrown in amongst other orc, undead, and chaos miniatures that I liked the look of. That was the only plague-based creature I had.

I still have the Beast of Nurgle (who is now stripped and re-painted) and have been able to pick up some of his kin in recent years too. It’s time to finally get this Warband up on its maggot-riddled feet.

And now I have!

I’ve named my leader Festerblade Rotsworn. I had to do a bit of kitbashing as I’d lost his original arms. I’m pleased with the result, though.

Festemus. Knightmare Miniatures‘ take on this Chaos Champion, found in the Warhammer 4th edition Battle Bestiary.

Brother Rust, a Chaos Warrior from Midlam Miniatures.

My nurglings get to play on this nice rotting stump, purchased from Rum & Resin Printing on Etsy. I have two other bases of nurglings to paint up and add to the warband.

I’m sure the plaguebearers are from a 2003-era batch.

My Beast of Nurgle from the 90s, stripped and re-painted, with more fungus thrown in. “You didn’t leave mushroom on the base for him”, I hear you shout in your best dad voice.

There’s lots more to come with this Nurgle warband. I’ll continue to add to it at my slow but steady pace. I’ll also talk about my progress on the Tabletop Miniature Hobby Podcast, so be sure to subscribe or follow the show, wherever you get your podcasts.

The aesthetics (and prices!) of modern Games Workshop miniatures aren’t for everyone – especially folks who grew up in the 90s. With that said, what are the best miniature companies out there if you’re in the market for some quality alternatives?

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It’s a familiar story. Man who played Warhammer as a kid suddenly finds himself diving back into the hobby in his mid-30s. For those returning hobbyists, there can be a lot of nostalgic excitement.

There can also be a bit of disappointment, though.

The loveable charm of the miniatures you remember has been replaced by a situation where even the lowliest rank and file soldier is an elite bodybuilder in a cinematic pose.

The good news is that there are an almost infinite amount of other miniature companies out there these days. This short list features what are – in my humble option – the best miniature companies out there right now.

Midlam Miniatures

Midlam Miniatures were the first company I discovered when I got back into the hobby. I’ve bought a lot from them over the past few years. I like them so much that I asked them to sponsor a few episodes of the Tabletop Miniature Hobby Podcast. They have a diverse range of miniatures, but I feel they really excel with their civilian and villager characters. I recently picked up a bunch of their junior townsfolk, which were a lot of fun.

Knightmare Miniatures

Spain-based Knightmare Miniatures are one of the best tributes to the Oldhammer era that you’re likely to find. I’ve built warbands of beastmen, goblins, and Chaos warriors from their excellent range. If you like to play any type of Chaos or greenskins then you’ll love a look through their catalogue.

CP Models

CP Models offer a lot of fun and genre variety in their range. They stock a multitude of scales from 6mm to 32mm, though it’s 28mm were most concerned with here. You’ll find Lovecraftian, steampunk, and retro-futurist miniatures on the CP site. I think they’re one of the best miniature companies for building Necromunda-style gangs.

Diehard Miniatures

Whilst I can’t confirm whether or not Diehard Miniatures are Bruce Willis’ favourite miniature company, they certainly are one of mine. I used their range to build my undead space marine crew for Stargrave.

Oathsworn Miniatures

Oathsworn Miniatures are one of the most unique companies of its kind. They specialise in anthropomorphic animals, predominantly created for their signature game Burrows & Badgers. As I kid, I loved Brian Jacques’ Redwall Abbey books, and these miniatures rekindled something in me when I first came across them. A truly amazing-looking range.

Otherworld Miniatures

Otherworld Miniatures are another company I’ve spent a fair bit of money with. Though, admittedly, that has a lot to do with their weird way of calculating shipping costs. Still, don’t let that take away from their superb range of miniatures. In particular, they excel at undead and anything that looks like it lives in a dungeon. I’ve used them a lot for our games of Rangers of Shadow Deep.

Best Miniature Company Alternatives

There are few things you can’t buy on Amazon, and miniatures are no exception. If you’re looking to beef up your armies without breaking the bank, or, would like some lower-cost minis to test out some new painting techniques, then check out some of these.

The following links are affiliates which means I’d earn a small commission should you decide to buy through them – never at any extra cost to yourself!

• Path Gaming 38 Miniatures Fantasy Tabletop RPG Figures
• Path Gaming 40 Fantasy Tabletop Miniatures
• Wildspire Fantasy Miniatures with Huge Dragon
• Wildspire Heroes, Animals & Troll
• Newcombie Wildspire 58 Fantasy Miniatures Set Townsfolk Characters

Etsy is also a popular marketplace for the miniature hobbyist, and you can find a lot of cool and interesting stuff on there. I’ve picked out a handful of miniatures that caught my eye recently.

• Rundsgaard: Creed’s Gaard Squad – Karskin Elites
• PMC Squad – Modern Wargaming Miniatures
• Beastmen – Longhorn Brutal Warriors
• Undead Blackwatch
• Goblin Cave – Goblin Army Bundle

Best Miniature Companies

So there you have it – six of my favourite miniature manufacturers at this moment in time, plus some budget bonus options.

And, if these have given you plenty of ideas for creating some new warbands or adventure parties, then be sure to check out our list of miniature agnostic games to use them with, too!